Seeding Your Lawn
Seeding recommendations vary with the type of grass you currently have, the climate in which you live and how you use your lawn. The optimum time to seed your lawn is between September 1st and October 1st. Temperatures at that time are generally cooler, which means less stress on new growth.
Another consideration for planting seed is the amount of traffic and shade that will occur in the areas you are planting. For high-traffic areas, a mixture of Kentucky Bluegrass and Perennial Rye is recommended. For shady areas, Fine Fescue or Creeping Red Fescue would provide more desirable results.
When applying seed, the seed needs to come into contact with the soil to germinate and establish a root system. The soil needs to be 55 degrees or warmer for the seed to germinate. Consequently, spreading grass seed over established lawns that have a thatch layer normally results in wasted seed and effort.
Please note that your watering practices during the first two weeks will make or break your efforts. Never let your seedbed dry out, but avoid overwatering and puddling! If you are planning to seed your lawn, contact TruGreen ChemLawn for additional recommendations.
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Sodding Your Lawn
Keep in mind that most sodded lawns have a tendency to have excessive thatch. We recommend that sodded lawns be aerated a minimum of once per year. Some lawns may require an aeration in both spring and fall.
- It is always best to have some loose topsoil for the sod to root into (minimum of 2-3"). Applying granular fertilizer with an analysis of 12-12-12 or similar will encourage root and plant growth.
- Adequate moisture is essential for sod. Try to water so the soil is wet 3-4" down. This will encourage the roots to seek the moisture, providing a healthy root system.
- Most people lay sod in the spring so they can have a lawn for the summer. However, fall is the best time to lay sod as the weather conditions are more favorable and less watering is required.
- Once the sod is firmly rooted (unable to pull up), a herbicide can be applied for weeds if necessary.
- Mow the sod when needed at 3"; do not allow it to get more than 4" in height. Mowing a lot off at one time will add stress to the lawn.
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Mowing Your Lawn
There are basically two common mowing erors: the first is that the lawn isn't mowed enough, and the second is that the grass is cut too short. When mowed properly, a lawn will grow thicker and have greater root growth that will help fight weeds, insects, diseases and stress (such as drought injury).
- When To Cut Your Grass: Let the growth rate of your grass be your primary guide to how often you mow your lawn. The secret is to cut off no more than 1/3 of the grass blade in one mowing. If for some reason your grass has grown too high, reset your mower to the highest cutting level, then after three or four days cut your grass back to it's normal height. Also remember to mow during the cooler times of the day (mid-morning or late afternoon). Mowing in higher temperatures can cause severe damage to the lawn.
- Proper Mowing Height: Select the proper mowing height for your lawn. The most common grasses for our area are Bluegrass, Fine Fescue and Ryegrass. Ideal mowing height for the Spring and Fall seasons is 2 to 2 1/2 inches. Ideal mowing height for the Summer season is 2 1/2 to 3 inches.
- Sharp Blades: How sharp the mower blade is can affect the lawn greatly. A dull blade shreds the grass blades which adds stress to the lawn and causes the lawn to have an off-color appearance. Most mower blades require sharpening several times each season. Also, new mower blades are NOT sharp enough to cut adequately. When purchasing a new blade, have it sharpened before use.
- Damaged Grass: Lawns recovering from drought, insect damage and disease will do better if you raise the mower height a notch or two until the grass has fully recovered.
- Wet or Wilted Grass: Cutting wet grass can cause clippings to clump together and smother your lawn, causing brown areas and potential for disease. Cutting wilted grass, especially during the hot part of the day, can also cause severe damage to your lawn. Mow in the cooler part of the day to avoid adding additional stress to your lawn.
- Clippings: We recommend using a mulching blade or mulching mower. Mulching the clippings and allowing them to remain on the lawn returns nutrients back into the lawn. Clippings do not add to thatch buildup.
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Watering Your Lawn
Irrigation is essential for healthy lawns and landscapes. Light rains or short downpours are NOT adequate for ensuring that your soil has been sufficiently soaked. Deep soaking encourages the development of a deep root system, which makes your turfgrass healthier. If adequate water is not supplied, your grass may appear thinner or more yellow and will be more susceptible to insects and disease.
The need for water depends mainly on your soil and, of course, the weather. The best thing to do is watch your grass for telltale signs of wilting, irregular patches (bluish-green to purple) and footprints left when you walk across the lawn. The most accurate way to check for the need to water is to use a knife to cut a wedge of soil about 4" deep and feel for a lack of moisture. If possible, avoid watering in the late afternoon or evening because grass that stays wet for long periods of time favors development of disease.
The key to irrigation is to get enough water into the soil to thoroughly soak the root zone, but not an excessive amount so that water is wasted. Most grasses require about 1-2" of water per week for healthy growth. You can measure the amount of water your lawn is getting by placing a used tuna can or a rain gauge under the spray of the water from your sprinkler or irrigation system.
You should also be aware of special situations in which specific watering practices are required. These include:
- Soil Type: Heavy clay soils may require more water, while light sandy soils usually require more frequent watering.
- Slopes: Water slowly to allow water to penetrate the soil. A healthy stand of grass on a slope will slow water runoff and protect against soil erosion.
- Excessive Thatch: Water slowly to allow penetration of the thatch, especially if it is very dry. More information on thatch can be found here.
- Newly Seeded Areas: After seeding, water daily to keep the soil surface moist. Do not allow seedlings to dry, but avoid overwatering and puddling. During hot, dry days, you may have to water twice per day
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